Returning to the ocean meant that we lost our cell phone reception and hardly could find places providing us with wifi…
Honestly, at the beginning it felt a little weird to be cut off from civilization, but after some time I started to love it. We were enjoying the surfer life. Let me tell you now the things we have done with hardly any connection to the rest of the world.
La Ticla is a small town along the Pacific Ocean. Two campgrounds, a church, little stores to buy food and once again amazing people are what you will find here. We choose to camp at Parador Touristica La Ticla for 50 pesos a night. Parador Touristica La Ticla is a beautiful beach front campground with cabanas and palapas to rent. The restaurant provided some sort of wifi but with many people using it, it was kinda useless.
In town we got to explore different little restaurants and a religious festival with pilgrimage from the mountain region. Ernesto, a guy from Argentina who moved to La Ticla with his wife a few years back, invited us to join the local holy festive time. We watched the prayers at the church and were invited to the dinner provided by the town after. We highly enjoyed socializing with local families and practice our Spanish. Ian, a previously met surfer from Hawaii, had his birthday during our stay. Ernesto decided to throw him a little party and made the most amazing Argentina BBQ and I decided to bake a german birthday cake. What a beautiful evening we spend laughing and eating!
Throughout our stay we reconnected with previously met surfers (Emma and Nick from New Zealand, Ian and Anton from Hawaii) and met new travelers (Zeke and gang from Texas, Marc from Fiji, Israel from Mexico and Veronique from Canada). Our days were spent surfing twice a day. Zeke and his gang from Texas kept me entertained in the lineup, while Kenny conquered the big sets with the Fijian, New Zealander, Mexican and Hawaiian surfers.
Emma and Nick took a ride with us to Nexpa. As the drive is pretty long we decided to spend a night in Maruata… OMG, how beautiful this little beach town was, only down side: no waves… But watch our video and photos to see how beautiful this place was.
Nexpa is another coastal town a few hours south of La Ticla.. The campground we chose was called Chi Cho’s camping. It was perfect for us, as Emma and Nick found a perfect little cabana with kitchen overlooking the break and Kenny and I camped just behind them along the river. We paid 50 pesos a night/person and even scored some electricity. Our phones stayed without reception, even though there was an option to buy some wifi we choose not to. Kenny was more than excited to be in Nexpa. As a big swell just arrived, Nexpa is known for its heavy barreling waves. The first day we all paddled out and I definitely reached my limit on the wave size. I was more scared and I could not enjoy the surf. Also, the funky crowd was not helpful by constantly dropping in and not friendly to big wave newbies. Unfortunately I got a stomach bug our first night and I was tied to the toilet for the next 2 days. In the meantime, Kenny scored his best sessions ever. Big waves, big barrels and his game plan was on full roll. I did manage to score a few videos of him, but not his best waves. However, I heard from everybody in town how amazing and big his waves were….
You might have noticed by now that Kenny and I are different level of surfers and therefore we choose our spots equally. Now it was my turn…
La Saladita is a tiny town, run and owned by three families. As Saladita host a perfect longboard left point break many retired Canadians and Americans come during the winter months. They definitely drove the prices up the roof. Emma and Nick, who tagged along, found the cheapest room for 500 pesos a night. It was right on the beach but compared to the rest of Mexico it was very expensive. Regardless of the room rental prices being jerked up, the camping stayed cheap. In La Saladita are two campgrounds, Uber and Pacos. Paco is Uber’s uncle…. Uber charges 70 pesos a night/person and has slightly nicer bathrooms. Paco who is located right next door, charges 50 pesos a night/person and offers full Hook-ups (Water, Electricity, Dump). For obvious reasons we choose Pacos. The beachfront in La Saladita has nothing else but a few hostels and restaurant. If you need to buy any food, etc you have to drive into the 10 minute away town. I surfed twice a day while Kenny gave some TCL to Hänsel and Gretel. I should mention that the drive to La Saladita was very narrow and rough and we definitely banged Gretel against a few trees. Thanks for the fiberglass material Kenny fixed her like a ding in a surfboard.
Two days passed, Emma and Nick moved on and Jazmine and Tyler (brother and sister from Florida) showed up camping right next to us. We instantly found a connection and spend everyday together playing card games, Yahtzee and having BBQ’s. Jazmine and Tyler are former pro surfers in their early 20 and very dedicated to make a living with free surfing and becoming health coaches. Check out their instagram under: https://www.instagram.com/unlimitedtimetravelers/
Kenny along with Tyler and a couple of expats from the U.S. hired a boat and explored the surf spots around the area. They scored head high plus waves at the Ranch and double to triple overhead at a secret spot, both offered epic long waves, but lacked the barrels. On the way back Kenny hooked into a dorado or mahi mahi. We had fresh fish that evening and ceviche the following day.
After 12 days surfing straight we had to pack up. It was time to find a supermarket, a water purification station and the next surf spot.
The drive from La Saladita to Puerto Escondido is forever long and requires multiple stops in between. Our first and most interesting stop lead us to Acapulco. Now, you hear all sorts of different stories of how dangerous Acapulco is. We did not feel comfortable at the beginning but the Acapulco campground just outside of Acapulco gave us a safe place to stay. The fact that we had to run some errands and that I needed to see a Doctor forced us to take a Taxi into town…. Wow, what a pleasant surprise. Yes the traffic is crazy, yes you see Police and Military everywhere, but we still enjoyed an afternoon stroll through town and accomplish everything we needed. Plus soooooo many Käfer, oh my shoulder hurts from playing the punch buggy game….
I personally believe people who like surfing in Zicatela are crazy. What a wave! The small swell we got to witness was insane… I officially announce that my boyfriend is crazy. Kenny definitely got his fix with barreling beach breaks… plus a sore shoulder, back & knee, and other countless bruises. Other than the surf, Puerto is a beautiful beach town, with plenty of bars, cafés and restaurants. We were lucky and found a camp spot right on the boulevard of Zicatela. Cabanas El Eden is located in a backyard and Hänsel and Gretel just fitted in. For 90 pesos/night/person they provided us with full-hook up. During our stay in Puerto we decided to give some TLC for Hänsel… oil change, tire rotation and air filter change. Plus a suspension specialist in town changed out Hänsel’s punctured Hellwig airbag and reshaped the bent airbag brackets. The Baja 1000 and the Mexican speed bumps (topos) have been taking a beating on Hänsel’s suspension.
Barra de la Cruz
From Puerto Escondido we head to Barra de la Cruz. Barra is a tiny town with great waves and many many many other travelers. At Cabanas Pepe we manage to squeeze Hänsel and Gretel next to a palapa. For 100 pesos/night/person we got some sort of electricity and access to the bathrooms. The campground was ok, but definitely the fellow travelers made it worth our stay. Barra is a unique town, the beaches are untouched with only one small restaurant. The entire community decided that everybody should get a fair cut from tourism and therefore all cabanas and camping spots are a 15 min walk away from the beach. The hike is no fun in 100/40 degree and 90-100% humidity and evil attacking bloodsuckers. Furthermore, they charge a 30 pesos/person access fee, which will fund the town school and other projects.
Like I mentioned before the fellow travelers made this place special. We met two Mexicans from cozumel, who invited us to surf a secret spot! Sooooo much fun and I got some epic footage of them surfing double overhead waves… we definitely will meet them in Cozumel again. The other really exciting couple we met are from Brazil, Bia and Paulo driving from Brazil to Alaska in a similar set up like us. We spend hours exchanging tips and trick, spots and adventures along each other routes. We see you in Brazil…
The waves in Barra were good but, way over crowded for our liking so we moved on to La Bamba.
Our last stop before heading inland….
The most amazing part about La Bamba is Blue Rock restaurant. Osvaldo is the owner of the amazing beach front property. He is a passionate protector of the turtles in this area and one of the most humble people we have met in Mexico. He offered us to camp outside his restaurant, which is the prime spot in front of the main break. We spend two days surfing with maximum five of us in the water and I finally challenged myself with fast rolling rights. Whoop Whoop!… I did sooooo good! Kenny was even more impressed when he realized that I lost a fin. Actually, I did not lose the fin, I forgot to screw it in properly and it was still lying at the campsite on our return… Whoopsie!…